How to Identify Gemstones (Spot a Real Gem Without Being An Expert)

How to Identify Gemstones (Spot a Real Gem Without Being An Expert)

We’ve always been drawn to colours. And as kids, this fascination showed up as an unexplainable thrill to chase the rainbow, pick the brightest colours, and collect marbles and stickers that felt like treasure.  

Funnily enough, this manifests into the appreciation of the shimmery, sparkly, and colourful objects called gemstones. There is something undeniably captivating about them. Maybe it's the colour, or maybe it's the name; ruby, sapphire, emerald, amethyst, that sound like they belong on a different world altogether.  

Yet, not everything is as it seems. Especially not when shopping in a market filled with dupes, synthetics, and cleverly convincing lookalikes. The good news is that there are ways to identify gemstones without studying gemology. With a few easy checks and a little curiosity, you can turn this wide-eyed fascination into something fun and insightful.   

What Does ‘Real’ Even Mean in Gemstones? 

Before we dive into the tests, let’s clear up what we’re even testing for. Because “real” isn’t as binary as you’d think. Here's how gemstones are classified in the jewellery world: 

1. Natural Gemstones

 These are mined from the earth and shaped by natural forces like heat, pressure, and time. They often contain minor imperfections (called inclusions), which only make them more unique. Think of rubies, emeralds, and sapphires sourced from specific regions with their own region-specific characteristics. 

    2. Lab-Created Gemstones 

Also called synthetic gemstones, these are made in labs but have the same chemical composition and physical structure as natural ones. They’re not fake, but they are man-made. 

    3. Imitations and Fakes 

These are materials that look like real gems but don’t have the same structure, durability, or value. Glass, plastic, and low-grade crystal often fall into this category. 

The Line Between the Real and the Fake   Lab-created gemstones may not be formed in the earth, but they share the same structure and beauty as natural stones. What matters is understanding what you’re choosing. It could be for its colour, its rarity, or its symbolism. You decide.

The Different Checks and Steps to Identify a Gemstone 

Spotting a real gem is much simpler than spotting a gem (of a person) worth your time. Stones don’t play games, and they certainly don’t ghost you. All you need to look for are clues with its colour, weight, and appearance.  Let’s break it down. 

Step 1: Use Your Eyes First (The Look Test) 

Start simple. Gem identification begins with close observation. The key is to not get lost admiring the stone, but instead look for specific visual markers or authenticity.  

What to Look For: 

• Colour: Real gemstones often have depth and variation. A ruby, for example, should be a deep, rich red and not a flat cherry tone. 
• Clarity: Tiny specks or lines (inclusions) are common in natural stones. If your gem is too perfect, it might be lab-created or an imitation. 
• Cut: A precise, symmetrical cut maximises sparkle. Uneven cuts can be a red flag or a sign of poor-quality imitation. 
• Surface Clues: Watch out for air bubbles, especially in glass imitations. 

A Gem of a Tip:  Turn the gem slowly under good light. If it sparkles the same from every angle, take a closer look because it might be glass.

 

Want to see the 4 Cs come to life?  Our Emerald Glow Drop Earrings show exactly how colour, clarity, and cut work together in a real gemstone. The depth of green, the visible natural structure, and the way they reflect light. It's everything you want to look for, and more.

Step 2: Feel the Stone (The Touch Test) 

Real gemstones have a certain weight and texture. You can often sense the difference the moment you hold one. 

What to Check: 

• Temperature: Real gems feel cool, even after sitting out. They take time to warm up in your hands.
• Weight: Authentic stones are denser and heavier than plastic or glass counterparts. 
• Texture: A real gem should feel smooth and hard. Anything waxy, gritty, or too lightweight should raise questions. 

The Weight of Something Real   A good gemstone has a presence. The Sapphire Sizzle Statement Necklace has that unmistakable weight and texture that only real stones offer.

Step 3: Light It Up (The Flashlight Test) 

Take your phone’s flashlight and shine it on the gemstone. How it interacts with light can reveal a lot about what it’s made of. 

Watch for: 

• Diamonds: Reflect brilliant white and rainbow-coloured flashes. 
• Sapphires/Emeralds: Produce a soft internal glow rather than a disco-ball effect. 
• Fakes: Look flat or produce uneven glare.

A Gem of a Tip:  Hold the stone under direct light, then tilt it gently. If the reflection shifts or deepens, that’s a good sign. Real gemstones interact with light in layered, distinctive ways; something imitations usually can’t replicate.

Let the Light Be Your Clue  The way real gemstones reflect light with a depth that others can’t match. The Colour Couture Lariat Necklace brings that to life with its vibrant stones that catch light from every angle, revealing shifts in tone and brilliance that feel unmistakably real.

Step 4: Do the Scratch Test (Only If You Dare) 

This one’s not for everyone, but if you have an unmounted stone and you’re willing to be careful, this step can be an incredibly telling way of identifying a gemstone. 

How it works: 

The Mohs Scale of Hardness ranks minerals from 1 (talc) to 10 (diamond). The harder the gemstone, the less likely it is to get scratched. 

• Diamond: 10/10 – the hardest substance on earth
• Sapphire/Ruby: 9/10 – very durable  
• Emerald: Around 7.5–8 – still hard, but slightly more fragile  
• Glass or plastic: Usually below 6  

Use a copper coin, steel file, or unglazed ceramic to gently scratch an inconspicuous part of the stone. If it scratches easily, it’s likely not real. 

Gem of a Truth (Warning)  Skip this step if the stone is already set or looks delicate. Scratching can do more harm than good, especially without the right tools. When in doubt, let a professional take a closer look.

Step 5: Try the Water Test (Sink or Swim) 

This is a fun, low-risk way to check density, especially if you’re comparing multiple stones. 

How to do it: 

    1. Fill a glass with clean water.  

    2. Drop your gemstone into the glass. 

Observations: 

• Real gemstones will sink quickly and settle at the bottom. 
• Imitations may float or drift down slowly due to lower density. 

Gem of a Guideline  This one’s best tried with loose, unmounted stones. If your gem is part of a larger piece, the setting can affect how the test plays out.

Step 6: Glow Under UV Light (The Fluorescence Test) 

Some gemstones react to ultraviolet light in unique ways. If you have a blacklight or UV torch, you can spot fluorescent behaviour that’s hard to fake. 

What to Expect: 

• Diamonds: Often glow blue under UV light 
• Rubies: Can fluoresce red or pink 
• Synthetic stones: May glow a different colour or not at all 
• Glass/plastic: Usually remain dull

Gem of a Disclaimer   Not all natural gemstones fluoresce under UV light. This isn’t a definitive test, but it can offer a useful signal when paired with other checks.

Step 7: Ask for a Certificate (The Professional Test) 

At some point, it’s best to get professional backup. A certified jeweller or gemologist can inspect your stone with specialised tools like spectroscopes, loupes, and refractometers. 

Always ask for: 

• Certificate of authenticity from labs like IGI, GIA, or SGL  
• Origin details, especially for high-value stones  
• Clarity and treatment disclosure 

Gemstone Identification vs Gemstone Appreciation 

Now, there's no need to be alarmed or suspicious, you just need to be informed. Once you learn how to evaluate a gemstone, you also learn how to see it for what it is. 

Knowing how to identify gemstones deepens your appreciation. You begin to notice not just colour and cut, but character. A real stone holds the memory of its formation, the mystery of its path, and the magic of its imperfections. 

Gem of a Collection  At Kumari, we bring gemstones to life, with meaningful designs. If you’re looking for jewellery that’s as real as your reasons for wearing it, start here. Explore our Collection of Gemstone Jewellery

Kumari Gemstones, Styled Your Way  

Once you’ve figured out how to identify gemstones that are real and remarkable, the next step is styling them your way. Here’s what we think your jewellery can say best:  

Style Intent	What It Means	Kumari Picks
Scene-Stealers	Big, bold, can’t-miss pieces that draw all eyes and spark all conversations. Ideal for weddings, parties, or when your outfit needs a co-star.	• Radiant Drops Gemstone Statement Necklace  • Sail Away Gemstone Statement Earrings
Layer-Lovers	Designed to stack, mix, and mingle. These pieces look even better when worn with others. Perfect for personalising your look.	• Clover Diamond Chain Bracelet  • Layered Beauty Gemstone Lariat Necklace
Solo Statements	Strong enough to stand on their own. These pieces don’t need company, just confidence.	• Royal Rebel Seal Statement Ring  • Bond of Love Diamond Statement Necklace
Everyday Extras	Easy to wear, hard to forget. Low-effort sparkle for high-repeat looks.	• Gilded Treasures Stud Earrings  • Glitter Flutter Statement Necklace

Learn the Language of Your Jewellery 

Your jewellery should not just be decorative. It should be declarative.  

A gemstone is an archive of the Earth’s story and a chapter of your own. Learning how to identify gemstones doesn’t take the romance out of the process. Is it effort? Yes, but it's all worthwhile because a real Kumari deserves a real gem.  

 

Frequently Asked Questions  

 

1. What are the 12 precious gemstones? 

While only a few stones are traditionally classified as precious, many consider twelve gemstones especially valuable for their beauty and symbolism. These include diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, amethyst, aquamarine, garnet, peridot, opal, topaz, tanzanite, and zircon, often celebrated as birthstones and collector favourites. 

 1. What are the 5 precious gemstones? 

The classic list of precious gemstones includes diamond, emerald, sapphire, and ruby. Some also include alexandrite due to its rarity and colour-changing quality. These stones are valued for their durability, brilliance, and historical significance in fine jewellery across the world. 

 2. How to tell if a stone is a gem or glass? 

Genuine gemstones have more weight, reflect light in complex ways, and never contain air bubbles. Glass tends to feel lighter and may look overly uniform. If the stone scratches easily or lacks depth in colour, it’s likely glass rather than a natural or lab-grown gemstone. 

 3.  What is gem identification? 

Gem identification is the process of determining whether a stone is natural, lab-created, or imitation. It involves checking visual traits like colour and clarity, testing properties like hardness or weight, and often verifying authenticity through certification or expert examination. 

 4. Do real gemstones have imperfections? 

Yes. Most natural gemstones contain inclusions or minor internal marks formed during their creation. These imperfections are not flaws but signs of authenticity, setting real stones apart from synthetics and imitations that often appear too perfect to be natural. 

 5. Are synthetic gemstones real or fake? 

Synthetic gemstones are not fake. They are man-made in labs but share the same chemical structure as natural stones. They look and perform like real gems but are typically more affordable and lack the rarity of earth-formed counterparts.